2018 is the latest vintage released from the big chateaux in Bordeaux. It is is an acclaimed vintage, but it wasn’t obvious at the time. Challenging weather meant the producers had to work hard for it. But in the end, the wines turned out very well. Many of the wines we have tasted are already enjoyable, but of course, you can keep them for long if you want. And some of them do need a few years to soften the edges.
What exactly is a good vintage?
In Bordeaux, a good vintage has traditionally equalled a vintage with good ageing potential. Some (very few though) Bordeaux wines are investment wines, which is one reason why Bordeaux has always been vintage-focused. But even those who buy to drink the wines are often anxious to buy “good” vintages.
An extensive selection of Bordeaux 2018 for tasting at the Union des Grands Crus tasting, copyright ... [+]
Bordeaux has, on the whole, a good climate for wine. It’s not too hot and not too cold. However, it is an Atlantic climate, and there can be too much rain, but also periods of drought. And there is no guarantee of sunshine in the summer. All this means that the vintages vary in style.
But the differences are less marked now than they used to be. Today, the châteaux manage better than in the past to make good wines in “bad” years. This is mainly because they have better clones, better technology and better possibilities to treat the vineyards against diseases.
Ideally, one should not talk about bad years. The opposite of a good year should be a lighter year, a year that is “ready to drink” faster than a good year. Such years are as pleasant as the years with long ageing potential, just different. In addition, they are less expensive.
Some of the Bordeaux 2018 for tasting at the Union des Grands Crus tasting, copyright BKWine ... [+]
Bordeaux 2018
2018 had lots of rain in the spring and early summer. It caused severe attacks of downy mildew, a fungus disease. But warm and dry weather arrived in August and continued in September and October. The grapes recovered and ripened properly. Some, but far from all châteaux, lost volume.
The resulting wines have a lovely concentration and the backbone that Bordeaux is known for, but with a certain softness. Many of the wines we tasted were already well balanced. Some were too marked by their oak ageing, and these need more time.
Our pick of the top 2018 red Bordeaux
Here are our favorites from a tasting in Paris, organized by the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux. These do not represent all the top wines in Bordeaux but a good number were included, around 100-120.
Some of the Bordeaux 2018 for tasting at the Union des Grands Crus tasting, copyright BKWine ... [+]
(A star, *, indicates a special favorite.)
Pessac-Léognan
Château Bouscaut *, tight tannins, typical Bordeaux aromas with cedarwood and roasted coffee from the oak. Well-balanced.
Château Carbonnieux, currently a bit too marked by the oak, slightly smoky at the end, let it rest for a few years
Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion *, smooth and aromatic in a floral, elegant style
Domaine de Chevalier, lots of fruit and lovely intensity, soft tannins
Château Fieuzal, full-bodied, toasted oak aromas, classic Bordeaux style
Château de France *, round, some softness, good intensity and balance, and elegant wine
Château Larrivet Haut-Brion *, fairly light, easy to enjoy already, aromatic, black currants, a long finish
Château Latour-Martillac *, powerful with well-integrated tannins, balanced
Château Olivier *, intense aromas, refreshing fruit, delightful wine
Saint Emilion
Château Canon, tight tannins, intense aromas of black currants, complex and elegant
Château Dassault *, generous fruit, marked tannins, good concentration
Château Franc Mayne *, excellent, classic style with a good length, aromas of black currants and a good intensity
Château Larcis-Ducasse *, generous fruit, red berry aromas, easy to enjoy now, balanced
Château Pavie-Macquin, refreshing fruit, complex aromas, good tannin structure
Château Trotte Vieille, ripe fruit, intense aromas, classic Bordeaux style
Château Valandraud *, young and austere with pronounced tannins but also generous fruit
Moulis-en-Médoc
Château Chasse-Spleen *, intense dark fruit, good structure but can be enjoyed already
Some of the Bordeaux 2018 for tasting at the Union des Grands Crus tasting, copyright BKWine ... [+]
Haut-Médoc
Château Cantemerle *, pleasant herbal notes, ripe fruit, complex
Château Lamarque, elegant, balanced in a discreet classic style
Château La Tour Carnet *, aromas that open up in the glass, very generous fruit, good length
Margaux
Château Angludet *, full-bodied and fruity in an accessible but complex style
Château Desmirail, full-bodied, tight tannins, classic style with a touch of new oak aromas
Château Monbrison *, smooth and beautiful fruit with fresh acidity, a bit different in style with 80% Cabernet Franc
Château Rauzan-Gassies *, aromas of oak, roasted coffee, spices, balanced
Château Siran *, elegant in a classic Bordeaux style, already very drinkable, good balance
Saint Julien
Château Beychevelle *, concentration and intensity in aroma and taste, smooth and fresh finish
Château Branaire-Ducru, tight, restrained fruit
Château Gloria *, fresh and smooth, discreet oak
Château Langoa Barton *, superb concentration, good balance and enjoyable already now, ripe, sweet berries
Château Léoville Barton *, tight tannins, expressive, complex and long taste
Château Léoville Poyferré, structured style with tannins but also generous fruit
Château Saint Pierre, black currants, good balance
Château Talbot *, tight tannins, powerful and rich wine, plenty of black fruit
Pauillac
Château d’Armailhac, floral, spicy, a bit exotic
Château Clerc Milon, intense aromas, lots of tannin, some oak
Château Lynch Bages *, powerful wine with structure and refreshing fruit
Saint Estèphe
Château Cos Labory *, mouth-watering, good acidity, austere but balanced
Château Phelan-Ségur, aromas a bit closed, well-structured with a generous fruit
Bonne dégustation!
—Britt Karlsson
